The iconic Biba labelA quick history
The most glorious fashion retailer of the 60's and 70's, Biba was the totally original brainchild of Barbara Hulanicki, a skilled fashion drawer-turned- designer. Unlike most of the fashion conglomerates of today, the Biba business had humble beginnings. Starting off as a mail-order boutique with a few cheap garments cut all to the same tiny size, Barbara saw her designs take off in a big way. The first dress ever made by Biba- a simple gingham shift, flew off the pages of the Daily Mirror and into the homes of thousands of eager UK girls quicker almost than Hulanicki could have them made. The first store opened, in Kensington in 1964, became a similar hit as the young and fashionable flocked to pick up the cheap, wearable and devestatingly cool fashions.
The Biba label went from strength to strength, and soon moved from the small stores of Kensington to the massive Derry & Toms department store- Here became Big Biba. Big Biba seemed to answer the dreams of young women everywhere- offering a luxurious and unique shopping experience. The Art Nouveau label became intensely desirable, and appeared on everything in the store- from art-deco suit jackets to baked bean cans. The shop had a luxuriant art deco interior more suited to a 30's film set than a 70's store, and floppy felt hats, silk jumpsuits and jersey knits vied for space with ostrich feathers, cut-glass counters and even a giant Snoopy unit. For many, the Biba store was not just a place to purchase- it was something to be seen. Big Biba became a tourist attraction-as worthy a spectacle as Big Ben. There were few products that didn't get given the Biba touch- Big Biba sold everything- Mens, womens and childrens' clothing, groceries, shoes, make-up, accessories, playing cards, souvenirs and more. To add to Biba's opulence, there was also a roof garden with live flamingos.
The Big Biba make-up counter
Sadly, this wonderful dream was not to last. Behind all the extravagance, the Biba label failed to keep up with the times, and Barbara was powerless to defend her invention when there were arguments over creative control. In 1975, Biba closed its doors, and so ended a British icon.
The Biba Look
Made for the impossibly slim tennager and young adult, Barbara described the perfect Biba girls as 'fresh little foals with long legs, bright faces and round dolly eyes'. The clothes themselves were frequently dark, romantic and owed much to the styles of previous decades- Art Deco especially. The colour palette, save for the odd venture into the more sequinned 70's glam look, stayed resolutely dark and rich- plums, rusty browns and inky blues. Some common features of Biba clothes include high arm holes, bishop sleeves and covered buttons. Today vintage Biba clothes are incredibly desirable and reasonable rare- however, if you want a piece of wearable history, they are not unattainable.
A Biba catalogue documenting the specific 'Biba look'.Some examples of Biba garments
Purchase Biba today
Be warned- there have been two full-on relaunches of the Biba brand- once in the nineties and once in 2006-2007. There were also some fairly terrible Biba concessions in the eighties! None have been designed or endorsed by Hulanicki herself, and neither are as well made or desirable as the 60's and 70's Biba. To find what labels prove the garment is a Biba original, click HERE
Posh Vintage- an enviable selection, priced with that in mind!
No comments:
Post a Comment